Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin

Interesting facts

1. 1

   The Bocca della Verità is widely believed to be an ancient Roman sewer cover or a decorative fountain piece rather than a medieval construct.

2. 2

   The church was assigned to the Greek community in Rome during the Byzantine era, leading to its 'in Cosmedin' suffix, derived from the Greek 'kosmidion' meaning adorned.

3. 3

   The interior contains a 13th-century ciborium over the high altar, crafted by Deodato di Cosma.

4. 4

   The basilica's campanile is the highest Romanesque bell tower in Rome.

5. 5

   A small skull decorated with flowers, attributed to Saint Valentine, is held in a glass reliquary within the church.

6. 6

   The name 'Cosmedin' refers to the former 'Field of Mars' area in Constantinople, suggesting a historical connection to the Greek Church.

7. 7

   It is one of the few remaining churches in Rome that maintains the layout of an early medieval diaconia, a charitable center for the poor.

Overview

The Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin is a medieval Greek-rite church situated in the Forum Boarium area of Rome. It is world-renowned for housing the Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth), a massive circular marble mask displayed in its portico. The building structure dates primarily to the 12th century, incorporating remnants of an earlier 6th-century diaconia. Its interior features a rare Cosmatesque pavement, characterized by intricate geometric marble inlays. The church is noted for its elevated schola cantorum and an exceptional Romanesque bell tower, which is among the tallest in the city. Relics of Saint Valentine are preserved in a side chapel within the basilica. The current structure stands on the site of the ancient Ara Maxima Herculis. It underwent significant restoration in the late 19th century to return the architecture to its medieval appearance.

Insider tips

• Visit the interior of the church to see the medieval mosaics and stone floors, which are often overlooked by those only queuing for the marble mask.

• Be prepared to wait in a dedicated line if you specifically intend to take a photo with the Mouth of Truth.

• Check the side altars for the reliquary of Saint Valentine, which is often missed by casual visitors.